The Nuances of Climbing Gym Gradings
While grades offer a general guideline, they don't always tell the whole story. BM head route setter Mike Taret points out the reasons why grades don't always 'feel consistent'.
Ever stood at the base of two boulder problems tagged as, say V4, only to find one feels like a casual warm-up while the other feels like a desperate battle? It's not just you! This is a common experience for climbers of all levels and highlights the fascinating — and sometimes frustrating — natural subjectivity in climbing grades.
While grades offer a general guideline, they don't always tell the whole story. Let's look into some of the key reasons why boulders of the same grade can feel wildly different.
One of the biggest reasons is the style of movement a problem demands. Think of different disciplines in athletics: A sprinter and a marathon runner are both athletes, but their training and strengths are vastly different. Similarly, climbing has a range of styles on different types of walls:
Slab: Delicate footwork, weight shifts, and reliance on friction.
Overhang: Raw power and core strength.
Vertical: Intricate foot placements, body positioning, and efficient movements.
Dynamic: Usually requires coordination, timing, and explosive power.
Beyond the overall angle of the wall, the type and size of the holds also play a crucial role. Imagine the difference between grabbing onto a nice and comfy jug versus trying to crimp onto a credit-card crimp.
The sequence of moves can also significantly impact its perceived difficulty. A series of straightforward moves punctuated by one awkward or insecure transition can suddenly make the entire boulder feel much harder. On the other hand, a problem with consistent, flowing movements might feel easier even if the individual moves are technically demanding.
One of the biggest reasons in felt inconsistency is the individual climber’s preferred style and/or hold type as well as their strength and weaknesses. We all have them! If a boulder problem heavily features your strength — say, you’re a crimp master and the problem is mostly tiny edges — it’s likely to feel more manageable. However, if it exposes a weakness, like a lack of flexibility on a high foot placement, even a lower-grade problem can feel like a challenge.
Finally, it’s important to remember the inherent subjectivity of grading — route setters do their best to suggest a grade based on their experience and the consensus of early ascents. How they feel on that day can also affect the decision. Are they having a low-gravity day? Are they feeling tired and weaker than usual? Individual perceptions can vary or a different beta is found, and sometimes a grade might be adjusted over time based on community feedback.
So, the next time you encounter a boulder that feels surprisingly easy or frustratingly hard for its grade, remember that a multitude of factors are at play. Embrace the variety, see it as an opportunity to develop different skills, and don’t be discouraged! The beauty of climbing lies in the diverse challenges it presents. Happy climbing!