It is often thought that taller climbers have it easier because they can ‘just span it’ — especially in tackling a reachy problem. In bouldering, span — defined as your wingspan relative to your height — often comes up in conversation (and a consideration that routesetters think about when crying in their beds). But how much does height/span really matter?

Is Span Critical?

Span can make a difference, especially on climbs with big reaches or stretched-out moves. A climber with longer arms might find it easier to stick distant holds, while a shorter climber might require more moves or a creative beta like using intermediate holds, heel hooks, or dynamic movements.

In truth, span is only one factor. Good technique, body positioning, and footwork can often help overcome what might seem like a ‘reach problem.’ That’s right — the solution isn’t always ‘JUST JUMP!’

Too Tall or Too Short?

Very rarely is a boulder problem truly ‘impossible’ because of body size. Routesetters always aim to create climbs that can be completed by a wide range of body types, though certain moves will naturally feel easier or harder depending on your build.

Shorter climbers may struggle with holds that are spaced far apart, but often excel in tight positions (small ‘boxes’) and on overhangs where body tension is crucial. Smaller frames can also make high steps and core-intensive movements easier.

On the other hand, taller climbers might breeze through big reaches, but can feel extremely uncomfortable and boxed in when holds are close together. Low roofs or ‘scrunchy’ problems quickly become terribly awkward, and tall climbers may need extra flexibility to make moves work.

So while span influences style, it doesn’t exclude you from attempting or even sending a problem — it just changes how you approach it.

A Closer Look at Biomechanics

Taller climbers don’t have it easier in climbing. From a biomechanical standpoint, taller climbers (or climbers with a longer body type) often struggle more on overhangs or steep wall angles as compared to shorter climbers due to multiple reasons:

1. Leverage and Torque

On an overhang, your body acts like a lever pivoting from your feet. The farther your centre of mass is from the wall, the more torque (rotational force) is pulling you off. Taller climbers usually have a longer torso and limbs, which means their centre of mass is farther from the wall when hanging on steep angles. This creates a bigger lever arm, increasing the torque they need to fight against.

Result: Taller climbers, whose larger physiques naturally already weigh heavier, must not only generate more pulling force, they also require greater core tension to keep their hips close to the wall.

2. Core Engagement and Compression

Overhang climbing is basically an exercise in keeping your body tight.

A shorter climber has less distance between hands and feet, so it’s easier to stay ‘compressed’ and keep hips close to the wall. A taller climber stretches out more on the same holds, so their body opens up. This requires greater abdominal and hip flexor engagement to maintain tension.

Think of it like doing a front lever: the longer your body, the harder it is to hold.

3. High Feet and Flexibility

On overhangs, tucking feet into the body and keeping hips close is mechanically easier for shorter climbers.

Conversely, taller climbers often need more hamstring and hip flexibility to bring their feet up without swinging their hips away. If they can’t, they end up with dangly feet and quickly lose tension.

4. Reach Isn’t Always an Advantage

While reach helps on slabs, vertical, or slightly overhanging walls, it can backfire on steeper walls.

On big overhangs, taller climbers may find themselves too ‘spread out’ — one hand on a distant hold, the other far behind. This elongated body position increases the load on core and arms, while shorter climbers can stay more compact and efficient.

Taller Climbers

Advantages:

• Long reach: Easier to span holds, often allowing fewer moves to complete a problem.

• Leverage on some moves: Longer limbs can create mechanical advantages for certain pulling positions.

Challenges:

• Overhangs and steep walls: A longer torso and limbs increase the distance between hands, feet, and the wall. This length creates a bigger lever arm, which increases torque and makes it harder to keep hips close to the wall.

• Core demand: Taller climbers need more abdominal and hip engagement to maintain body tension on steep problems.

• Flexibility required: High steps, scrunchy moves, or low roofs can feel cramped unless mobility is excellent.

• Body weight factor: Taller climbers tend to weigh more, which adds load to fingers, shoulders, and forearms. More mass means faster pump on overhangs and a higher force requirement for each move.

Shorter Climbers

Advantages:

• Compact positioning: Easier to stay close to the wall and maintain core tension on overhangs.

• Lower body weight: Less mass to lift, so forearms and core fatigue more slowly.

• Flexibility advantage: Shorter limbs allow tighter, more efficient positions in scrunched or complex sequences.

  

Challenges:

• Reach limitations: May need to use intermediate holds, dynos, or creative sequences to bridge wide gaps.

• Dynamic moves: Larger distances may require more explosive movement or momentum to reach the next hold.

• Fewer leverage options: Some bridging or wide-arm positions may feel awkward or less efficient.

To sum it all up:

Pros of being taller and/or having longer span:

• Reach distant holds more easily.

• Greater leverage on certain moves.

• Can sometimes “skip” holds and simplify sequences.

Cons:

• Awkward in tight spaces or small boxes.

• May need more flexibility to get feet high.

• Higher body weight can mean more strain on fingers and joints.

Pros of being shorter or and/or having shorter span:

• Easier to stay compact and tight on steep terrain.

• Often better core tension and precision.

• Less body mass to pull upward.

Cons:

• Big distances may require more dynamic movement.

• May need to use extra holds or moves.

• Taller climbers make static moves that are just physically impossible.

Final Grip

So, can you be too short or too tall for bouldering? Not really. No body type is ‘better’ for climbing — just different. Taller climbers may breeze through long reaches but need extra core strength, tension, and flexibility on overhangs. Shorter climbers excel in compact, powerful positions but often need creativity and dynamic skill for long spans. Body weight compounds these differences: more mass increases torque and fatigue, while lighter climbers can feel ‘floaty’ and efficient.

Span may influence how you climb, but it doesn’t define your potential. Every body type comes with advantages and trade-offs. The key is learning to leverage your strengths and adapt to your challenges.

Let your body type guide your movement rather than limit it. After all, climbing has never been about fitting a single mould — it’s a question of finding creative beta on the wall, no matter your shape and size.

— KL

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At its core, climbing chalk is magnesium carbonate, a mineral powder that absorbs moisture. For climbers, its purpose is simple but crucial: to keep hands dry and improve friction on holds. Sweaty palms are a reality of hard climbing, and chalk provides that extra bit of grip that can make the difference between sticking a move and slipping off.

Types of Climbing Chalk

Not all chalk is created equal. There are three main types climbers can choose from, each with its own feel and use case:

Loose powder — Comes in two main varieties: the fine, flour-like texture that coats easily, and the chunkier clumps that break down gradually.

Block chalk — Solid bricks of chalk you crush yourself. Messier, but cost-effective.

Liquid chalk — A mix of chalk and alcohol that dries quickly on your hands, leaving a lasting base layer. Especially useful at the start of a session or when gyms limit airborne dust.

Choosing the Right Chalk

For indoor bouldering, most climbers stick with loose chalk for quick top-ups. Chunkier types last longer between dips, while finer powder gives instant coverage. Block chalk is handy if you like to customise the texture in your chalk bucket. Liquid chalk shines in high-intensity sessions — apply it before your first climb and re-chalk with loose powder as needed.

Ultimately, the ‘best’ chalk comes down to personal preference and the conditions you’re climbing in. Try different types and see what feels best for your skin and climbing style.

Chalk Smarter, Not Harder

While chalk helps, using it indiscriminately can backfire. Climbers who chalk up excessively can cause holds to be coated so thickly in a layer of chalk that they feel slick or slippery rather than sticky.

A light dusting is really all you usually need. Over-chalking dries out your skin and increases mess in the gym.

Beyond grip, chalk also plays a role in skin health. One of the most dreaded minor injuries for climbers is getting flappers — this happens when a callus or patch of skin rips open, leaving a raw wound that abruptly ends your climb session, and can take weeks to heal.

Chalk helps here in two ways:

Dryer skin = less slipping. Without chalk, sweaty hands slide on holds, increasing friction and the chance of skin tearing.

Even coverage = less abrasion. A light, even coat reduces the chance of hotspots where skin drags against textured holds.

But there’s a balance: too much chalk dries your skin excessively, making it brittle and actually more prone to splitting. Be mindful to use chalk smartly with regular skin care — file down calluses and use a good hand balm after climbing to keep your skin strong and ready.

Substance Abuse

And that brings us to the essential point of chalk etiquette. The gym is a shared space, and the walls and holds are shared equipment. How you use them as well as your personal chalk bag/bucket affect everyone around you.

Chalk Dos & Don’ts:

DO

• Apply a light, even coat — don’t overdo it.

• Brush holds after use to keep them clean for others.

• Experiment with different chalk types to find what works for you.

• Use liquid chalk as a base layer for longer-lasting grip.

DON’T

• Clap your hands into a chalk cloud — it wastes chalk and affects the quality of the air you breath in.

• Leave chunks of chalk on holds.

• Leave patches or trails of chalk on the floor and/or mats.

• Rely on chalk as a substitute for good technique or proper warm-up.

• Ignore skin care — overuse of chalk can dry out and crack your hands.

  

While chalk can double up as ‘courage powder’ helping us recollect and mentally prepare for a hard climb, it is good to remember that chalk is a tool, not a magic fix. Chalking up indiscriminately causes inconvenience and discomfort for your fellow climbers.

Used thoughtfully, it keeps your hands dry, your grip strong, and the climbing experience better for everyone.

— KL

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What Happens When You Over-grip

Your forearm muscles, particularly the wrist flexors and extensors, are the main muscles involved in having good grip strength. If they are weak or undertrained, you will fatigue quickly when you over-grip. Push past their capacity and the tendons can get overused, sometimes leading to long-term pain conditions like golfer’s elbow (pain inside the elbow) or tennis elbow (pain outside the elbow).

So why do climbers over-grip? There are four underlying factors that may contribute to it:

1. Fear of falling

2. Lack of rest

3. Weak proximal shoulder and back muscles

4. Improper warm-ups and cool-downs

Fear of Falling

Many climbers (new or even seasoned but trying a challenging boulder problem) grip too hard out of nervousness. If you are tense, afraid of falling, or lacking confidence, your body naturally clamps down harder than it needs to. It is a natural physiological response.

What you can do:

• Practise safe falls so you trust the mats and yourself.

• Practise techniques like straight arms and quiet feet to reduce strain on your forearms.

• Strengthen your forearms and your shoulders, so you rely less on your grip alone.

  

Lack of Rest

Climbing is addictive, and many of us end up climbing multiple times a week. While the sport is exhilarating, your forearms remain tight and fatigued, setting you up for pain if they do not get rest. Again, remember that load that exceeds muscle capacity = higher injury risk.

What you can do:

• Take rest days between climbing sessions to allow recovery.

• Train your forearm and grip strength off the wall to build more endurance.

Weak Proximal Shoulder And Back Muscles

The muscles located at the back of your shoulders as well as your mid-back muscles are known as the proximal muscles. They are much bigger and stronger than your forearms. When they are underdeveloped, your body compensates by making your hands and forearms do more work than they should.

What you can do:

• Strengthen your shoulders, back, and core to help transfer load efficiently.

• Engage your larger muscle groups on climbs instead of relying on your grip.

  

Improper Warm-Ups and Cool-Downs

Jumping straight into your climb session without warming up puts your forearms under unnecessary stress. Likewise, skipping cool-downs leaves them tight and sore.

What you can do:

• Spend at least 15 minutes warming up your whole body, especially shoulders and back to prime your muscles to help with your climb.

• Add light forearm exercises like weighted wrist curls to warm up your forearm muscles.

• Stretch and release your forearms with a massage ball to reduce tightness after your climbs.

If you have persistent elbow pain or constant forearm tightness, it is worth getting it checked by a physiotherapist or doctor. A proper assessment will identify whether your pain is linked to over-gripping or other factors like muscle imbalances.

Over-gripping might feel unavoidable at first. However, adopting right habits like resting well, training your bigger muscles, and taking care of your forearms before and after every climb helps to build confidence, which in turn helps you climb better and prevent injuries.

Climbing is not just about hanging on — it is about moving better so that you enjoy your time on the wall more!

Sarita Mok is a regular climber at BM and a physiotherapist at BM’s official physio partner One Percent Physio & Rehab. One Percent is located at 142 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427422, tel: 8767 0973.

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8 a.m.
Our team of setters meet up and talk about the plan for the day, if anyone has specific ideas of boulders or movements. In the case of an event, the weekend/days prior we’ll do a quick debrief and talk about what went right, and what could be improved setting-wise.

Once the talks are done and everyone has had coffee/breakfast and is ready to work, we start stripping the walls with one routesetter taking care of sorting freshly cleaned holds. Towards the end of stripping, a second team member starts gathering the dirty holds into crates and gets them ready to move into the hold washing room. During that time, the mats are vacuumed and the walls are checked for potential damage and broken screws. While all this is happening, I prepare the grade spread on the whiteboard.

9:30 a.m.
With the wall bare, like a blank canvas, this is when the actual route setting starts. We discuss the plan for volumes; sometimes we will place them in a way to facilitate setting specific moves if someone has an idea. Other times we’ll place them in an aesthetic way, creating patterns and playing with wall angles — this usually helps spark creativity and coming up with ideas.

Once everyone is happy with the volume placement, we each pick what we want to set on the whiteboard by writing our names, hold colours, and wall side next to the chosen grades. Each of us usually set 3 to 5 boulders each, depending on the set.

Then we start slinging plastic until everyone is done with their boulders.

12:30 p.m.
By this time, we are mostly done setting and ready to break for lunch. We usually take ~1 hour to eat, chill a bit, and warm up.

1:30 p.m.
Forerunning starts. As a team, we test the boulder problems from easiest to hardest as it allows us to keep warming up slowly. Here the goal is to check for multiple things, for example: Is the boulder within its specified grade? Is a move reachy? Is a position tweaky or unnecessarily risky which may potentially cause injury?

If the answer to one (or more) of these questions is yes, then we make changes to the move or sequence in question. In the case of a boulder missing its assigned grade, we will usually look for ways to grade swap with another boulder if it is more efficient.

5 p.m.
Once every problem has been tested thoroughly and validated, we move on to getting the wall and setting area ready for opening.

One or two of us will be tasked with clearing the mats: unused holds are moved back into storage, and tools/bolts/screws on the setting cart. Meanwhile, other setters take care of tagging the Top and Start holds as well as putting downclimb jugs where needed. Before ladders are put away, we do one last screw check to make sure holds and volumes are fastened properly to the wall.

5:30 p.m.
The new set is ready to climb as the gym opens to the public for the day.

P.S.: The schedule can vary depending on things like the wall section and number of setters. For example, BM Bugis’ Island might open closer to 6 p.m., while BM Downtown Slab usually opens before 2:30 p.m.

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Whether you're projecting your first V3 or chasing V6s, making your climbs count means more than just racking up attempts and tallying the number of problems you sent. It’s about showing up with intention, climbing with focus, and leaving stronger — not just physically, but mentally and technically too.

Here's how to make every session worthwhile.

1. Plan and Prepare

Don’t skip the small stuff—it all adds up.

Warm up properly: Get your fingers, shoulders, and hips ready before you hit your limit. It reduces injury risk and sets your body up for success.

Set a focus: Ask yourself: “What do I want from today?” It could be refining footwork, conquering a project, or just climbing with better control.

Pick climbs that push you: Find that sweet spot — problems that aren’t way too difficult, or pick those that challenge you without causing frustration or pain.

2. Prioritise Quality Over Quantity

More climbs ≠ better climbing.

Climb with intention: Avoid autopilot. Every move or sequence should have a purpose.

Practice deliberately: Zoom in on technique — quiet feet, efficient body tension, or smoother transitions.

Trim the excess: Wasted foot swaps, foot tapping on sketchy holds, and panic grabs burn energy. Experiment with techniques and find the most efficient sequence. Efficiency is key.

3. Stay Present and Mindful

Your mind is a powerful climbing tool — maximise it to your advantage.

Be aware of your body: Tune into how you move, breathe, and shift weight/centre-of-gravity.

Reset between climbs: Chalking up or visualising your beta can help you re-centre.

Notice what works, and what doesn’t: Mindless repetition won’t fix poor habits.

4. Track and Reflect

You can’t improve what you don’t notice.

Log your climbs: Whether in a notebook or an app, or simply taking videos of your attempts, noting your sends and struggles gives clarity over time.

Spot your patterns: Struggling with compression? Avoiding slabs? That’s your growth zone.

Adapt your approach: Let your reflections and learnings shape how you approach your next session.

5. Train Variety, Not Just Difficulty

Don’t get stuck in one style.

Change it up: Crimps, slopers, overhangs, volumes — each teaches our body different movements and skills.

Challenge yourself creatively: Try the same climb with fewer foot swaps, better balance, or smoother movement.

Fail on purpose: Often, the climbs that we almost send are the ones that have the most to teach us.

6. Climb with (Good) Company

Your session may be more fruitful with others who push you.

Surround yourself with challenge: Climb with friends who have different strengths and weaknesses. Their beta and energy can be contagious.

Share and receive wisely: A helpful tip can change everything. But offering unsolicited beta? Maybe not.

Record your climbs occasionally: Watching your own movement can be surprisingly insightful.

7. Rest, Recover, Reset

No gains without recovery.

Take proper rest days: That’s when the body rebuilds and strengthens.

Listen to your body: If something feels weird or off, dial it down.

Fuel and sleep well: These aren’t just ‘basic’ — they are absolutely crucial.

Bonus: Did This Session Count?

Before you pack up for the day, check in with yourself:

• Did I warm up and set a focus?

• Did I challenge myself with something hard or unfamiliar?

• Did I reflect or learn something new?

• Am I leaving feeling satisfied, not wrecked?

• Am I giving myself time to recover?

If you answered yes to 3 of these points or more — your session counted. Nice one!

Final Thoughts

Climbing isn’t just about strength — it’s about awareness, intention, and consistency. By approaching each session with clarity and purpose, you’ll climb better, stay healthier, and progress faster.

Next time you're at the gym, perhaps take a moment before you hop on the wall. Ask yourself: How can I make this session count? Then go climb with purpose — stick the holds, and have fun doing it.

— KL

Should you be concerned?

Let’s start with this: Posture is not inherently good or bad. Research increasingly shows that there is no perfect posture — plenty of people move and function well despite having what might seem like ‘poor’ posture. To set the record straight, the point of this is not to instil fear, self-consciousness, or overthinking.

That said, there is a performance angle that climbers could consider, particularly concerning mid-back (thoracic) mobility.

Why Do Climbers Hunch?

Climbing is a pull-dominant activity. As climbers, we are constantly using muscles like our lats and pecs to bring ourselves closer to the wall. Once we are off the wall, the body naturally wants to rest and recover; slouching often feels like the easiest way to offload the neck and upper back muscles.

Now, here is the thing about slouching: If we’re only doing it occasionally, that’s totally fine!

But sustained slouching over time? That is when we may start to notice changes in shoulder position, tension, and eventually, causing the rounded shoulder and hunched posture.

Why Mid-Back Mobility Matters in Climbing

In climbing, when we reach overhead for the next hold or when hanging, our shoulders do not work alone. A certain amount of movement through the mid-back (thoracic spine) naturally happens to support that action. If this mobility is limited in our mid-back, our shoulders compensate, which can affect:

• How confidently we reach or hang

• Shoulder joint health

• Long-term climbing performance

What Limits Thoracic Mobility or Thoracic Extension?

• Tight muscles: Overactive pecs and lats can pull the shoulders forward

• Weak muscles: Underactive mid-back muscles like the middle and lower traps causing rounder shoulders

Quick Self-Test: How is Your Mid-Back Mobility?

Try the Occiput-to-Wall Test! It is a simple test to check if your thoracic spine is holding you back from performing better.

1. Position your feet about 1 foot away from the wall.

2. Lean your back against the wall. Ensure your lower back is not arched — you should not be able to slide your hand between your lower back and the wall. If you are able to slide your hand in, tilt your pelvis back to flatten your back against the wall.

3. Bend your knees slightly into a quarter squat position.

4. Bring the back of your head (occiput) to touch the wall.

What to look out for:

• If you cannot bring your head back without tilting it upward (i.e. looking at the ceiling)

• If you feel your lower back arching to compensate

then you likely have limited thoracic mobility.

But don't worry! This is simply a starting point to identify stiffness and begin working on improving mobility.

What can you do about it?

Improving posture and mobility is about consistency over time. While there is no perfect formula, many climbers benefit from working on a few key areas: Stretching tight muscles like the chest and lats; strengthening the mid-back to support better shoulder function; and addressing the neck, especially if you tend to stay in a forward-head posture for long periods i.e. if you are working on a computer or using your mobile device.

Take It One Step at a Time

It must be emphasised, as physiotherapists we are not trying to ‘fix’ you. Our goal is to give your body the tools in order to move better and climb stronger. Undoing months (or years) of habitual posture takes time, but with steady effort, even small changes can make a big difference.

And if you are already thinking this sounds familiar to our philosophy at One Percent Rehab, you are right! It is about being 1% better every day.

References:
• Smythe, A., & Jivanjee, M. (2021). The straight and narrow of posture: Current clinical concepts. Australian Journal of General Practice, 50(11), 807–810. https://doi.org/10.31128/ajgp-07-21-6083
• Stewart, S.G.; Jull, G.A.; Ng, J.K.F.; Willems, J.M. An initial analysis of thoracic spine movement during unilateral arm elevation. J. Man. Manip. Ther. 1995, 3, 15–20.
• Howe, Louis & Read, Paul. (2015). Thoracic spine function: assessment and self-management. Strength and Conditioning.

Sarita Mok is a regular climber at BM and a physiotherapist at BM’s official physio partner One Percent Physio & Rehab. One Percent is located at 142 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427422, tel: 8767 0973.

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We have narrowed down five fundamental techniques and training every new climber should have in their toolkit.

1. Footwork

Most new climbers naturally tend to focus on pulling hard, but good footwork is what makes the difference between falling and flowing. Good footwork is defined by precision, control, and efficiency. Constant shuffling (or ‘tapping’) of the feet and micro-adjustments on footholds are usually tell-tale signs of poor footwork and not trusting your feet; and the more time you spend on the wall adjusting your feet placement, the less energy there is to finish a boulder problem.

Training ‘silent feet’ — the practice of placing your feet quietly and deliberately on footholds — trains precision, awareness, and control. Instead of stomping and shuffling your feet on footholds, try intentionally and consciously watching your foot placement as you climb. Aim to land them gently, quietly, and smoothly on footholds. One method of training precise footwork is to allow yourself to place your foot on a foothold only once, and not make any more adjustments after that.

Use the toe or inside edge of your climbing shoe to gain maximum surface contact. When climbing, don’t shy away from repositioning your foot if the placement doesn’t feel secure, but make it an intentional habit to refrain from micro-adjustments.

2. Matching

Matching refers to placing both hands or both feet on the same hold to set up for your next move. It is the most commonly used technique in climbing, but its proper execution is often mostly overlooked or neglected.

Learn to read a boulder problem before hopping on, and plan your sequence carefully. This not only saves you time and energy on the wall, it also helps you identify where matching hands or feet is required, so you can plan ahead and check how much room there is to work with for your hands and feet. Poorly executed matching could mean you slip off a hold, while good matching creates space to reposition efficiently and flow smoothly for the next move.

3. Flagging

Learning to flag unlocks the secret to finding balance and stability in awkward positions, especially on verticals and overhangs, or when one foot doesn’t have a hold to step on. Flagging utilises body positioning to allow you to make the next move in a stable and static manner; it involves extending your free leg out onto the wall to counterbalance your centre of gravity and prevent the body from swinging out (barn-dooring).

When learning to flag, be aware of your centre of gravity and do what feels right to maintain a sense of balance. If you are not maintaining balance, you may be using the wrong foot, or not pressing the free-hanging foot into the wall for leverage. It boils down to counterbalancing in order to find a position of stability on the wall.

4. Weight Shifting

Using body positioning efficiently is what turns a good climber into a great climber. Oftentimes, this involves being conscious and aware of your centre of gravity. The next time you climb onto the wall, try shifting your weight by moving from your hips, and have a sense of how your weight flows or centre of gravity changes through each move.

Be intentional and experiment with moving your hips towards the foot that you are stepping on, and see how it improves the flow in your climb. By utilising body positioning, you will find that there is less strain on your arms, which means more fuel in your tank to overcome the crux (the most difficult sequence) in a problem.

5. Reading the Problem

Reading a boulder problem is a skill that is acquired through experience. It allows you to analyse a climb and sequence of moves (or beta) even before you start climbing it. Start by observing the placement of all the holds, and visualise how you would move through the sequence — where the hands and feet should go at every part of the sequence, and where the crux lies.

Mentally rehearse the moves and transitions and think about finding the most stable body positions. Once you have planned your sequence of moves, start climbing the problem and move through your sequence with intention. Sometimes, the problem throws up surprises (such as a hold that feels much poorer than it looks); don’t be afraid to make adjustments and change the sequence as needed.

While there is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ in bouldering, these basic techniques and skills form a strong foundation that doesn’t just turn you into a better climber, it also makes bouldering more enjoyable, fun, and sustainable. To progress rapidly with expert guidance in your early climbing stages, consider joining a short course or programme such as BM’s 6-week Boot Camp that equips you with all the knowledge and skills you need to be a proficient climber.

Enjoy the movements and flow, and before long you will see yourself floating up the wall with grace and confidence. — KL

But here’s the thing: Sometimes it is not your technique that is failing you, it is your muscles. Here, we will break down the key muscles behind toe and heel hooks and how training them can level up your climbing performance.

1. Toe Extensors and Dorsiflexors for Toe Hooks

Toe hooks often come into play on holds such as underclings and side pulls, where your foot needs to act like a claw to hook onto the hold. The key players here are the tibialis anterior and your toe extensor muscles, which work isometrically (i.e. hold tension without moving) to keep your foot locked in place. This keeps your body from swinging out, also known as barn-dooring.

Here’s the kicker: Most climbers do not train these muscles enough, so when you want to commit to a toe hook, your foot does not have the force to make it work. That is why strengthening those muscles is a game-changer. They might be small muscles, but strengthening them leads to significant impact.

Examples of exercises you can try:

• Bodyweight tibialis raises

• Dorsiflexion against resistance

  

2. Hamstrings for Heel Hooks

Heel hooks are all about pulling your centre of mass closer to the wall. That big pull? It is your hamstrings doing the heavy lifting, especially when your hip is flexed and your knee is bent.

Well-executed heel hooks can save your arms and fingers, but poor strength or mobility can increase risk of injuries. Injuries like hamstring tears or avulsions (when part of the muscle or tendon pulls away from the bone) are unfortunately not uncommon in climbers (Schöffl et al., 2016).

To have strong hammies, do not just deadlift — train them in the positions you use for heel hooks. This would mimic the demands of the movement and help translate strength into performance.

Examples of exercises you can try:

• Platform hamstring bridges

• Towel hamstring curls on the floor

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3. Calves: Gastrocnemius and Soleus for Heel Hooks

How can we forget the good old calves, right? Depending on the orientation of your heel hook, your foot might be pointing up, down, or rotated sideways. When your toes are pointing down, almost like a compression move, your calves — especially the gastrocnemius and soleus — need to engage to help create friction and keep your foot secure.

Making calf strengthening part of your training routine is a great way to build that extra edge you need to lock in your heel hooks with confidence.

Example of exercises you can try:

• Bent-knee calf raises

4. Trunk Muscles for Both Toe and Heel Hooks

Your core (aka your trunk muscles) is the bridge between your upper and lower body. Without a strong trunk, all that force from your legs does not get transferred properly to the rest of your body and you lose efficiency.

Good hip and ankle mobility matter, but strong trunk muscles are what really help you commit to a toe or heel hook. They provide the stability and control you need to hold awkward positions on the wall.

The exercises suggested below simulate climbing-specific engagement and help you build strength where it matters most.

Examples of exercises you can try:

• Hanging leg raises

• Planks

In conclusion, great technique will only take you so far if your muscles cannot back it up. Toe and heel hooks rely on specific muscle groups that many climbers overlook in their training. But with some focused strength work, you can boost your performance, reduce injury risk, and climb more confidently and efficiently.

Remember, don’t sleep on those small muscles. They are doing more work than you think.

Sarita Mok is a regular climber at BM and a physiotherapist at BM’s official physio partner One Percent Physio & Rehab. One Percent is located at 142 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427422, tel: 8767 0973.

Progress can come very quickly in your first six to 12 months — especially if you already have some baseline fitness — as you quickly advance to higher climbing grades. But without some foundational knowledge or experience, this can be quite a dizzying experience.

Here are five things every beginner should know to get the most out of your climbing journey in this early phase.

1. Develop your personal warm-up routine.

Hopping on the wall without first being properly warmed up can potentially result in injuries, especially in your shoulders, wrists, fingers, and ankles. Because bouldering is a physically intensive activity, a good warm-up routine is critical — it prepares your body’s system, muscles, and joints for climbing by gradually increasing your heart rate, body temperature, and blood flow, thereby reducing the risk of strains.

The routine doesn’t have to take long; even five to 10 minutes makes a difference. Consider some simple dynamic stretches; mobility work for shoulders, wrists, and hips; and a few really easy climbs (focusing on efficiency of movement and precise footwork).

2. Focus on technique instead of strength.

Physically strong climbers can often compensate for a lack of proper technique, but this won’t take them very far — at some point, both strength and technique are required in equal measure in order to approach harder boulder problems.

Remember that bouldering is more about movement than brute force. Strength will naturally come with more training and climbing. Start by focusing on developing precise footwork, shift your weight efficiently, and climb with control. These help take the load off your arms, allowing you to conserve energy to climb longer. Developing good habits early on in your climbing journey directly translate into more sustainable progress as you climb harder grades in future.

Watch how others climb, and don’t be shy to ask for tips or beta. And always bear this in mind: Good habits built early will pay off in the long run.

3. Rest enough in order to get stronger and better.

We know because we’ve all been there before: It’s easy to fall into the trap of wanting to climb as often as possible because it’s fun and exhilarating. But our body needs time to recover, especially when our muscles, tendons, and joints aren’t used to this level of intense stress in climbing. Overexertion can lead to strains, and inflammation of the joints also known as tendonitis, which in turn require even longer recovery time. If ignored, all this can could spell trouble later on in our lives as we age.

Aim for two to three climb sessions per week, and give yourself ample rest in between. If you wish to maintain some level of activeness on rest days, consider doing ‘Yoga for Climbers’, which is of lower intensity and can still help you find progress in climbing.

It sounds counterintuitive, but it is absolutely true: You actually improve more when you take breaks.

4. Embrace all the falls and failures.

Constantly falling off a boulder problem can be frustrating, but it really is a perfectly normal part of the game in climbing.

Bouldering requires mental strength and problem-solving, and figuring out a sequence or overcoming a crux after repeated tries is hugely satisfying. Don’t let a fall or failure take you down. Treat each attempt as progress. Soon, you will discover that you could not do a certain move or a boulder problem last week, and suddenly today you can. This happens every day to all of us, all the time.

5. Embrace your community.

Bouldering is an inherently social activity. Don’t be shy to chat with fellow climbers, ask questions, or share beta. More often than not, solving boulder problems with fellow climbers and friends help us discover and learn new movements and skills, or see something that might be in our personal blind spot.

Most gyms have a warm and welcoming vibe, and engaging your fellow climbers and cheering for one another can really help accelerate your learning. After all, aren’t we all here to have fun?

— KL

Here are 5 ways you can optimise your recovery. And the best part? Some of them only take 10 to 15 minutes of your time!

1. Active Recovery and Maintenance Exercises

• Recovery does not mean a complete stop. Engaging in low-intensity movement promotes blood flow and helps your muscles recover without overloading them. Some great options include:

• Climbing at very easy grades: This helps you stay mobile without overexertion. Think of this as a ‘cool-down’ climb.

• Light aerobic activities: Examples include inclined walking, jogging, or cycling to boost circulation and help flush out lactic acid.

• Resistance training with bands: Doing these prime your climbing muscles without excessive strain. You could try:
  I. Banded shoulder exercises to keep your shoulders strong and stable
  II. Finger openers to counteract the constant gripping in climbing

2. Passive Recovery

Sometimes, a good way to recover is to just let your body relax. Here’s how:

• Foam rolling and self-massage:

While research on its effectiveness is mixed, many climbers find that foam rolling helps increase mobility and reduce soreness. Key areas to target include:
I. Quadriceps — crucial for having better footwork and pushing off footholds
II. Lats — heavily involved in pulling movements
III. Forearms — under constant tension from gripping
IV. Mid-back — often stiff from maintaining climbing posture

• Heat and Cold Therapy

Cold therapy like the use of ice packs or plunging into an ice bath may help reduce inflammation, especially for acute injuries like sprains. Heat therapy like taking a warm shower or using heating pads improves blood flow and relaxes tight muscles, helping with overall recovery.

3. Sleep

Did you know that a study done in Sweden found that 45 percent of climbers report poor sleep quality? It further found that poor sleep quality increases sensitivity to pain and affects the production of isometric force (Charest & Grandner, 2020) — a crucial factor for holding static positions on the wall.

Make sure you aim for at least 7 to 8 hours of quality sleep per night to help muscles, tendons, and the nervous system recover effectively. This truly is the secret weapon for better climbing.

4. Stretching and Tendon Care

75 percent of climbing injuries occur in the upper body; among these, 60 percent involves the hands and wrists. This is why stretching and tendon gliding exercises are essential for offloading tension and reducing strain.

Take a few minutes to do these:
I. Thoracic extension stretch — helps to improve upper back mobility.
II. Forearm stretches — reduces tightness from repetitive gripping.

5. Incorporating More Rest Days

Worried that rest days will slow your progress? The answer is no. Overtraining leads to fatigue, increased injury risk, and decreased performance. Your muscles, tendons, and even your skin need time to recover and rebuild.

To keep progressing your climb, aim for at least 3 rest days per week, especially after intense sessions. Resting does not mean being completely inactive — light movement and mobility work can help keep you loose while allowing your body to recover.

Recovery is not a complete break from climbing. It contributes to you climbing stronger, longer, and better. Remember, take care of your body and it will take care of you on the wall!

Sarita Mok is a regular climber at BM and works as a physiotherapist at One Percent Physio & Rehab. One Percent is BM’s official physio partner, whose clinic is located at 142 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427422, tel: 8767 0973.

Regardless of how these common challenges appear, it all boils down to one thing: Are we prepared for what the next climb demands?

In situations like this — especially if we are looking to make sustainable and measurable progress in our climbing journey — it helps to have the input of an impartial observer who is also an expert in the sport i.e. a professional coach. And it isn’t something reserved for the world of elite athletes.

As far as recreational climbing goes, having a coach can be an immensely powerful way to ‘hack’ one’s progress and enjoyment of the sport. ‘Coaching accelerates your progress by providing expert guidance tailored to your strengths and weaknesses,’ shares Joash Lim, Head Coach at Boulder Movement. ‘Instead of spending months or years figuring things out on your own, coaching helps you avoid bad habits, refine techniques, and improve efficiency. It’s essentially an investment in your development. Whether you’re looking to climb harder, move better, or reduce injury risk, structured coaching ensures that every session contributes to meaningful progress.’

The input and benefits received from coaching isn’t something that casual advice and guidance from fellow climbers at the gym can replace. While climbing regularly and observing others can help, self-directed learning often lacks structure, progression, and feedback. Many climbers plateau because they tend to focus on what feels comfortable, rather than addressing weaknesses. ‘Structured coaching provides a clear roadmap to improvement, helping climbers build a strong foundation, refine techniques, and break through plateaus faster. Instead of trial and error, you get systematic training that ensures every session is productive and goal-oriented,’ Joash says.

Coaching begins with an assessment — this is crucial as every climber has different strengths, weaknesses, and movement patterns. The assessment helps both the coach and the climber identify areas for improvement, whether it’s finger strength, movement efficiency, route reading, or mental strategy. Thereafter, the coach creates a structured plan, which may include technique drills, strength training, endurance work, or mental approaches, depending on the climber’s goals. Regular feedback and adjustments ensure continued progress, preventing stagnation and frustration. ‘The biggest benefit,’ Joash quips, ‘is personalised guidance that targets exactly what you need, rather than a one-size-fits-all approach.’

And that isn’t just all there is to coaching — it can also fundamentally transform our outlook and approach to climbing in ways such as:

• Technical Growth – As we learn to move more efficiently, we expend less energy and climb smarter.

• Strength & Conditioning – This means developing the right physical attributes (finger strength, power, endurance) specific to climbing.

• Injury Prevention – By learning proper mechanics and training methods, we are better equipped to stay injury-free and enjoy longevity in the sport.

• Mental Game – This contributes to improved confidence, risk assessment, and on-the-wall decision-making.

• Faster Progression – One achieves more in months than one might in years of self-guided climbing.

Whether our goal is to climb without getting injured, to climb higher grades, to train a specific style or aspect, or simply to enjoy the sport at varying levels of intensity depending on how we feel day to day, having a coach facilitates the process of us becoming more well-rounded, confident, and capable climbers. If anything, it gives us the right skillset and conditions not only to climb more, but also to climb longer and better.

— KL

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To progress at the sport sustainably and see better performance on the wall, ancillary or cross training can be very helpful, especially in preventing injury and overuse of certain muscle groups in climbing.

One form of training that nicely complements climbing is, unsurprisingly, yoga. In the modern vinyasa style, yoga has the potential to blend dynamic movement with conditioning exercises or sequences designed to work on target areas relevant to climbing development.

For instance, dynamic movement in vinyasa yoga can help improve flexibility and mobility in the hips, which helps facilitates climbing moves such as high steps, hand-foot matching, and heel or toe hooks.

Some common movement patterns in vinyasa yoga, which include chaturanga, downward dog, side planks etc. if carried out correctly help train shoulder and scapular stability, and further strengthens pushing actions — this can be useful in the context of climbing moves such as mantling and pushing. But more importantly, having stable shoulders and scapulars can also help to engage other back muscles in creating more efficient pulling motions, which is one of the most common movements in climbing.

Leg-balancing poses in yoga further trains our sense of balance and strength in our glutes, quards, hamstrings, and calves, all of which translate directly into more efficient climbing through greater strength and power, and taking off some load from our upper limbs and body.

One positive element of incorporating a yoga practice is that the level of intensity can be adapted to the individual’s needs and limitations. Especially on rest days in between climbs, engaging in a style of yoga with lower intensity such as yin yoga can help alleviate tension held in the body and stretch out those sore muscles. This form of ‘active recovery’ reduces the likelihood of injury and creates room for recalibration, which in turn allows you to enjoy the benefits of your next climbing session.

In short, practising the appropriate style of yoga and the right exercises/sequences help us build a better base level of fitness, which paves the way to making us more effective and resilient climbers.

— KL

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Here are five good habits you can cultivate to climb longer and better:

1. Set aside dedicated time for warm-up before your climb.
   Bouldering requires a strong core for balance, explosive power to execute dynamic movements, and strong upper and lower limbs to manoeuvre small holds and slabs. A proper warm-up is crucial to prime the muscles used during your climb. It would help improve mobility, especially in your shoulders, hips, and ankles, which is key to better climbing performance (Diez-Fernández, 2023). Your warm-up should also focus largely on dynamic stretches to improve flexibility of your muscles and mimic climbing movements.

2. Take adequate rest between boulder problems.
   Boulder problems are likened to sprinting because it usually takes a short time to attempt or complete a problem. If your rest breaks between each boulder problem is too short, it does not give your muscles adequate time to recover, which puts you at risk of overuse injuries like tendonitis. It is good to give a relative rest time of at least 3-5 minutes between problems due to the amount of power and effort used by the body.
   “Training past the point of power decline is counterproductive and is a great way to flirt with injury.” – Steve Betchel

   

3. Get proper sleep.
   Bouldering is an intensive exercise that leads to micro damages in our muscles, and this is the case even for recreational climbers. During sleep, our body produces hormones that will aid in muscle repair and regeneration. Other than that, it has been reported that poor sleep impacts production of isometric force (Charest and Grandner, 2020) which is often needed to sustain holds or positions while bouldering. Poor sleep also negatively impacts your body’s recovery and affects your cognitive abilities, such as decision-making and reaction time, which are essential in tackling a boulder problem. This, in turn, increases your risk of injuries (Fullagar et al, 2014). Hence, having adequate and good quality sleep is a very important habit to build into your daily routine.

4. Integrate active recovery and cross-training to improve climbing performance.
   Bouldering can place significant strain on the body especially if you are new to the sport and are adapting to new movements. It might be worthwhile to consider engaging in low-intensity activities like yoga, cycling, or swimming to remain active on your rest days without overloading your muscles. That being said, investing time in strengthening bigger muscle groups other than your fingers and upper body (which are mostly used during bouldering) will prevent muscle imbalances, reduce risk of injury, ensure functionality, and improve overall climbing performance.

   You might be concerned that increased muscle mass will increase body weight, which might in turn make it harder to climb. However, the perk of having more muscle mass is having more contractile muscle fibres that generate more force, thereby improving performance (Saeterbakken et al, 2024).

5. Listening to your body and seeking help early.
   Longevity in climbing is about protecting your body from injuries and preventing them before they become worse. Injuries usually happen when the load the body is subjected to exceeds its capacity. The body will show you signs when this is happening — you might experience soreness, fatigue, regular cramps, or some form of pain. This is your cue to take a break or stop for the day to rest. It is also essential to ensure that you progress the intensity and frequency of your climbs gradually to prevent injuries caused by overtraining or overloading.

It is also a good habit to seek professional help early if you are experiencing persistent pain or discomfort for prolonged periods of time to prevent your injury from worsening. Sometimes, just rest alone may not be sufficient. Instead, you might benefit from having a tailored treatment programme that you can strictly follow, which would improve healing outcomes (Piper et al, 2017).

Bouldering is a physically and mentally demanding sport, whether you are a seasoned or new climber. By building sustainable habits, you can protect your body, enhance your performance, and keep doing what you love for years to come. Bear in mind that progress is not just about climbing harder—it is about climbing smarter. Take care of your body today, and it will take care of you on the wall tomorrow.

Sarita Mok is a regular climber at BM and works as a physiotherapist at One Percent Physio & Rehab. One Percent is BM’s official physio partner, whose clinic is located at 142 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427422, tel: 8767 0973.

There’s no denying it — flexibility is indeed a great physical asset when it comes to climbing. It allows us to do hand-foot matching, sit in drop-knees, activate heel hooks, aggressive forward folds, bat hangs, and so on. It is a prerequisite for us to be able to push, pull, and keep tension in multiple angles and directions.

But this is only true insofar as one is able to actually use that flexibility. And this is where even our ‘bendier’ climber friends may soon start to realise that simply being flexible isn’t enough — climbing also requires mobility.

It helps here to develop a clearer understanding between flexibility and mobility. While they are interrelated and sometimes used interchangeably, they do mean very different things. Flexibility is a muscle’s ability to lengthen passively, or without engagement. Mobility is related to the joints and one’s ability to move actively through one’s full range of motion. In simpler terms, flexibility is the ability of the soft tissues (muscles, ligaments, tendons) to stretch passively, while mobility is the joint's (the point where two bones meet) ability to actively move through its full range of motion.

Flexibility and mobility are both important components of healthy movement. Mobility requires flexibility in the muscles and other soft tissues, but more importantly, mobility also requires strength and stability. In other words, a person can have great flexibility, but lack mobility due to weak muscles in the joints. (On a related note, this is why flexible people who lack physical strength benefit the least from practices such as yoga, and are usually the ones more prone to injury.)

How then does flexibility and mobility impact our climbing? The most common example for this is when an intended move on a boulder problem feels incredibly hard not just due to a lack of strength, but also the body’s inability to meet the range of motion required — imagine not being able to bring your foot high enough for a high step, or unable to spread your legs wide enough to two footholds in a corner.

Having good mobility in different parts of our body greatly improves our climbing. Wrist mobility enhances wrist stability especially in optimal weight-bearing positions; shoulder mobility allows us to execute movements that require rotation of the shoulders; hip mobility facilitates in keeping our hips close to the wall, do drop-knees, in bringing our feet high to footholds or do hand-foot matching, weight-shifting, and so on; ankle mobility allows us to engage heel hooks, step on volumes, and perform toe-downs on tiny footholds.

As climbers, enhancing our flexibility and mobility can help improve movement efficiency, which directly translates to conserving energy. Potentially, that could make all the difference for an extra hard move. Conversely, if we have poor flexibility and mobility, we run the risk of overstraining our muscles and joints and put ourselves at an increased risk of injury.

What can we do in this regard? The first step is to start incorporating basic flexibility and mobility routine exercises. But go slow and go gentle, as this allows our muscles and joints to adapt and develop strength for increased range of motion. To ensure safety and reduce the risk of injury, it helps to have a professional coach with whom to train, especially if you have climbing goals you want to hit.

And remember, never compare yourself to a friend or partner. Every body is built differently, and our aim to become more flexible and mobile are ultimately personal milestones and goals. Some of us will always be more flexible but have less strength, and some less flexible but have more physical strength.

In short, flexibility may be a great physical attribute to have to support your toolkit of climbing skills, while having mobility will enable you to see greater performance. But having both require routine practice, which can take the form of strength training or yoga adapted for climbers.

— KL